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Freotopia > West End > walks > Walk 4 - SMARTPHONE VERSION here
West End Walk guide by David Hutchison
Fremantle Walks by David Hutchison, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, 2006: Walk 4, 90-138.
The West End could be walked in one day, but this would not allow time to linger and examine the buildings at leisure.
The walk starts at the Esplanade end of Cliff Street and then follows Phillimore, Mouat, Henry and Pakenham Streets in turn, with excursions into High Street and several smaller streets.
Many buildings in the West End are now owned by Notre Dame University. This is indicated by the initials NDUA.
As noted in the 'Brief History', many West End buildings had their verandas removed and, in some cases, their ground floor facades altered. The original styles can be seen on upper storeys.
Marine Terrace
Water Police Station and Quarters
Architect: John Grainger, Chief Architect, Public Works Department
Builder: H. Abbot
On the corner of Marine Terrace and Cliff Street. When built in 1903 as offices and quarters for the Fremantle Water Police, this building, in Free Federation Classic style, to would have been close the original foreshore. It replaced an earlier building on the site, which had been used by the police since the establishment of the force in 1851. The Imperial Water Police were charged with ensuring the safety of shipping in the port and preventing the escape of convicts. The force came under the control of the Colonial Government in 1885. Subsequently, the building was used as a sailors rest, and the office section was used by the Architectural Division of the Public Works Department from 1937. From 1958 the building provided low-cost inner-city housing. In 2004 it was divided into six strata titles for mixed residential and commercial use.
Cliff Street
Former Convict Establishment Commissariat
Architects and builders of earlier components: Imperial Convict Establishment
This complex of handsome limestone buildings houses the Shipwreck Galleries of the Western Australian Maritime Museum. The earlier parts were constructed, in the main, by convicts. On entering, the visitor will be in the oldest part of the building, which was constructed in 1852 to answer the urgent need of the recently arrived Imperial Convict Establishment for a store. The stone walls and simple brick arches provide an evocative background for the displays of artefacts from the wrecks of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Dutch East Indiamen.
A 'new store' was built to the north in 1856, but this was reconstructed in 1896. Part of the 'B Store', to the left of the entrance gallery, was added in 1860-61. A Drum Store, built in 1895-96, has been modified by converting the first floor into a mezzanine, to allow for the reconstruction of part of the hull of the Batavia, which was wrecked on one of the Abrolhos Islands, off Geraldton, in 1629.
Parts of the complex, not open to the public, house offices and work areas for staff of the Maritime Archaeology and Conservation and Restoration Departments.
The separate building, on the street frontage, also of limestone, is enhanced by tuck-pointed brick quoins. It was also built in several stages: the central portion in 1852 for offices for the Convict Establishment; the other parts in c. 1894, c. 1896 and 1897. This building houses offices and a function centre. Below one of the windows on the left of the facade can be seen a mailing slot. This section was used as a post office from 1879 to 1890. In front of the central entrance is a small area paved with Yorkshire flagstones. Thousands of these were imported in 1859 to construct pavements in Fremantle.
When convict transportation ceased in 1868 the activities of the Convict Establishment were wound down progressively. The commissariat was handed over to the Colonial Government in 1878 and, in the following year, the buildings were converted into a customs house and bonded warehouse. The Customs Department moved to a new building in Phillimore Street in 1904, and the complex was gradually taken over for use by the government stores and some other departments. The Stores Department vacated the buildings in 1977 and the building was transferred to the Western Australian Museum for conversion into a maritime museum The first stage of restoration was completed in 1979 and the last stage (the former customs house) in 1986.
These galleries are devoted to displays of artefacts recovered from Dutch and colonial shipwrecks by maritime archaeologists. The reconstructed partial hull of the Batavia is a centrepiece. On display against the wall is a replica of a stone portico, prefabricated in the Netherlands, and intended to be erected at the entrance of Batavia Jakarta Castle. The original is now on display at the Midwest Regional Museum, a branch of the Western Australian Museum, in Geraldton.
Other important relics on display include the Vlamingh Plate, and the Gudrun and Samuel Plimsoll figureheads.
The red brick wall on the opposite side of the street marks the site of a limestone, shingle-roofed post office (1899) designed by the influential government architect George Temple Poole. Unfortunately, it was demolished in 1965 before Fremantle began to consciously conserve its heritage.
Note the special buff-coloured bricks in the pavement in front of the Maritime Museum, some bearing symbols in blue of marine life. They are part of the Old Shoreline Heritage Trails that you will see along Croke Street, Marine Terrace (near Henry Street) and parts of Cliff and Phillimore Streets. They mark the former sea and river shorelines. At five point on the trail there are blue mosaic bollards, designed by potter Joan Campbell, that mark major topographical features. They are located at the corner of Essex Street and Marine Terrace, Anglesea Point, Point Marquis, Arthur Head and at the end of Market Street near the Railway Station.
Croke Lane
Commercial Building
Architect: attrib. J.J. Talbot Hobbs
Nos. 2-4 Croke Lane - at the seaward end.
A warehouse was listed on this site in the 1891 rate book. The site was owned from 1893 to 1902 by the stock and shipping merchants Dalgety Company, which later relocated to the corner of Phillimore and Cliff Streets. In 1933, the building was bought by Western Star Milling and the rear section was converted to a four mill. The building was sold to the biscuit manufacturers Mills and Wares in c. 1966; it continued in use until the closure of the latter and was converted to residential apartments in 1986.
Down a lane beside this building are two limestone facades, one of them with a simple form of Dutch gable. They may be the only surviving facades from the 1830s and may have been part of the original Shenton Building.
Cliff Street
Elder Shenton & Co Building (original architect: Hobbs) 37-45 Cliff St, now the home of local paper, The Fremantle Herald, is on the corner of Croke Lane, formerly Dalgety St. At the end of the nineteenth century, the (first) Literary Institute stood on this same corner, with the Pier Hotel directly across the road.
Lilly's Building, 34-42 Cliff St, completed 1896, designed by architect Herbert Nathaniel Davis. James Lilly was a shipping merchant.
The McDonald Smith Building, 22-32 Cliff St, has had various owners, including Vincent, James Lilly, and Tompkins and Co. The building was designed, as Cliff Street Chambers, by architect Herbert Nathaniel Davis.
Samson Building, 1892, 31 Cliff St, designed by Talbot Hobbs, offices of the oldest family-held business in all of Australia, Lionel Samson & Son, whose record is approaching 190 years of continuous trading, the company having been founded at the settlement of the colony in 1829, as the date on the building's pediment proclaims.
Facade (only) of the Liebler Building, also known as Reckitt & Colman Building, at 21-29 Cliff St. It was saved from complete demolition in 1967. What's behind it now is a NDU carpark. It was recently called the 'wedding wall' because bridal parties were photographed in front of it.
Intersection with High Street
The Bank of NSW building, at 7 High St, on the SE corner with Cliff St, was designed by Wilkinson & Smith, and built for the Bank on land owned by Pearse and Owston in 1899. The building was fully leased to NDU when it was sold in 2014. See also: Wikipedia page.
The building on the NW corner with High St is the former Union Bank building. The first building on the site, on town lot 5, was Captain Daniel Scott's residence. The monogram UB may be seen above the doorway. The Church of England bought the building in 1930 for the Flying Angel Mission to Seamen. It is now Notre Dame building 32: Arts & Sciences. NDU has preserved the name of a previous occupant on top of the door, and on the corner first-floor window: G. S. Murray, Customs Brokers.
Hotel Fremantle, 6 High St, lacking its corner turret and flagpole, like the P&O Hotel. This was designed by Wilkinson & Smith and built in 1899, and a renovated version was the Kiwi headquarters for the Americas Cup defence in 1987, Steinlager on tap.
High Street
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Tannatt Chambers, Cellars (Craig's Chambers), commercial building
Tannatt Chambers, 8 High St, 1900, has 'Moorish' elements. It was designed in 1900 by E.M. Dean Smith as was Craig's Chambers, adjacent.
The Cellars Building, 10 High St, 1900, aka Craig's Chambers, once housed Paul Rigby's Roo on the Roof restaurant in its cellar in the 1960s. The restaurant was later (or also) known as The Cellars, giving the building its current name. Paul Rigby, together with Alec Smith, of the Fremantle Hotel, lobbied Tony Samson to save the Liebler building, nearby in Cliff St. Samson saved only the facade, which still stands.
Cliff Street
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Dalgety/Elder/Wilhemsen/MSC Building, corner of Cliff and Phillimore Sts
The 1902 Dalgety building, aka Elder building, Wilhemsen building, Barwil House, and now MSC building, on the corner of Cliff and Phillimore Streets was designed by J.J. Talbot Hobbs, the land having been purchased from Perth Mayor George Shenton between 1886 and 1888. A photo of the first buildings on the site - the Shenton house complex, including stables - is to be seen here.
Atlas Chambers, 6-8 Cliff St, is between Phillimore Chambers, on the corner of Phillimore Street, and the Fremantle Hotel, on the corner of High Street.
This building is of unusual design for this part of Fremantle, with its window awnings and a pair of tall pyramidal roofs. The awnings and roofs were tiled at one stage, possibly in place of shingles. This gave them a heavy appearance. The tiles have been replaced with corrugated iron. The site was owned by the Helpman family from 1855 to 1881. From 1880 to 1882 a printer, James Pearce, leased buildings on the site, and in c. 1882 W.F. Samson bought the property and used it as additional premises for Lionel Samson and Son. From 1901 it was let to Margaret Currie and a Miss Smith who ran a boarding house and restaurant there. The Samsons sold the property to the Municipal Tramways in 1903, which, thirty years later, became the Fremantle Municipal Tramways and Electric Light Board, which continued to own it until 1951. It was then acquired by Elder Smith and Company and leased to Robert Laurie and Company. It was sold back to Lionel Samson and Son in 1968. Hutchison: 101-102.
Phillimore Street
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Dalgety's Warehouse and Bond Store, 1901, is the first building from the west in both Phillimore and High Streets (1 Phillimore becomes 2 High St). Elder Smith owned it from 1927 until Lionel Samson bought it in 1971. Then in 1983 it was sold, and was later converted into apartments.
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The weighbridge buildings at the corner of Cliff and Phillimore, in the middle of a roundabout system, were built in 1921 and 1934.
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Phillimore Chambers, 1899, at 11 Phillimore St and 2-4 Cliff St. Tenants included shipping companies. Designed by Wilkinson, Smith and Wilson, architects, 1899.
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Dock Buildings, at 13-15 Phillimore St. Built for its architect, E.H. Deane Smith, in 1899. Frank Biddles owned it from 1903, then Sumpton and Sons 1934-50s. Brian Klopper designed two apartments in the upper floor. '... a fine example of a Federation Free Classical style building, with elaborate stucco decoration above the ground floor level, that makes a significant contribution to the streetscape.' (City of Fremantle)
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The P&O Building, 17-19 Phillimore St, dating from 1903, was built for the AUSNC (the Australian United Steamship Navigation Co), the initials of which can be seen in the pediment.
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Horse trough: in front of the P&O Building, it was built in c. 1924 when horse teams were used for transport of goods to and from the port. It stopped being used in 1849-50 and, in the early 1970s, was converted to a garden bed.
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On the other side of the street, the 'Old' Customs House, 1907/8, at 4-8 Phillimore St stands where the first Railway Station and, before that, The Green used to be, on land reclaimed from the river, at the entrance to Victoria Quay. Customs moved into the new Commonwealth offices at 41 Phillimore St before 1987, and the building has since been used by artists, and arts organisations like Deckchair Theatre and the WA Circus School.
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The McIlwraith Building, 1919, at 10-12 Phillimore St, has also been known as Scottish House and Patrick's Building.
Hudson House, 1922, 14 Phillimore St
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The Chamber of Commerce, 16 Phillimore St, 1912, still in use as such.
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The Old Fire Station, 1908, was the Bengal Restaurant from 1977 until recently; it is now accommodation for backpackers. The current fire station is the next building to the east.
Mouat Street
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The original hotel on the site at 2-8 Mouat St was called His Lordship's Larder. The current building, from 1890, now part of NDUA, like most of the buildings in these six city blocks of the West End of Fremantle, is His Majesty's Hotel, but it was briefly called by its former name after its Americas Cup renovation.
Building of Howard Smith and Sons, from 1900, at 1-3 Mouat St, now ND43 School of Nursing and Midwifery.
The German Consulate, 5 Mouat St, was built in 1903 for William Bacon. The German Consul, Carl Ratazzi, who was also Acting Italian Consul, was interned after the beginning of WW1. Many people remember this building as the Tarantella Nightclub. It's currently a B&B.
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The Adelaide Steamship Company building, at 12 Mouat St since 1700, is now the residence of a former Deputy Mayor of Fremantle, who restored it in 1991.
High Street - intersection with Mouat Street
This intersection has buildings representative of several aspects of the city's industry and commerce.
Western Australian Bank, 1891, 22 High St, aka Bank of NSW, Westpac Building, Challenge Bank. The building at 22 High St is also 18 Mouat St, and was later a branch of the Bank of NSW (/Westpac). The pediment has AD 1891 in stucco. The building to the east in High St is the Cleopatra Hotel. The flag on the left of the picture normally flies over the Adelaide Steamship Company building.
The Commercial Bank, 1901, at 20 High St, on the NW corner of High and Mouat Sts, was later a branch of the National Bank of Australia. The building was renovated in 1960.
Move west along High Street.
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Bank of Australasia, 1901, 18 High Street, Wilkinson and Smith, architects, possibly designed by W.J. Waldie Forbes. The sign suggests it's the offices of winemaker Leeuwin Estate. The Commonwealth of Australia logo near the door indicates/d the tenancy of a Federal Dept.
Return to the intersection.
Owston's Buildings, at 9-23 High Street, occupy almost all of the space on the southern side of High St from Mouat St to Cliff St. Owston was a shipowner. The Roma Restaurant is still here, having opened in about 1940. It was taken over by Nunzio Gumina when long-term owners the Abrugiata family sold out, and the name changed a little to Villa Roma. Nunzio now has a restaurant in his own name in Essex St, and the Roma has been renovated and opened again by Abrugiata family members. Unfortunately, the Laminex is gone.
The Waterside Workers Federation used to occupy the Mouat St corner of the building around 1970. It's now occupied by NDU.
The P&O Hotel, on the SE corner of Mouat and High, at 25 High St, was completed in 1896. The verandahs were restored in 2002, tho sadly it is still lacking its original turret.
Mouat Street
Patrick Hagan, the licensee of the Victoria Hotel (see P&O) had a house here, at 26 Mouat St. The Strelitz brothers built the warehouse on the site in 1880. It's now the NDU Student Recreation Hall.
Silversmith Eric Carr converted the building at 28 Mouat Street into his workshop and residence in 1976.
Strelitz Buildings, 1897, 30 Mouat St. Built in 1897 for Richard Strelitz, consul for Denmark and acting-consul for Sweden, who was interned during the first World War. Herbert Hoover (later President of the USA) had an office here 1904-6. Wikipedia page. Heritage Council page.
What is now the headquarters of Notre Dame University was built in 1887 for hardware merchant William Sandover (c. 1856—c. 1921) at 17-19 Mouat St.
25 Mouat Street is Prindiville Hall, part of NDU.
Bateman's Hardware Store, at 32 Mouat St, is now NDU's Student Centre.
A former army drill hall between Croke St and Marine Tce is now an NDU function centre.
The third courthouse, 1884, still stands in Marine Terrace. It is now part of Notre Dame University and is used by the Law faculty for moots.
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The original Masonic Hall was located at the corner of Mouat Street and Marine Terrace, and opened in 1877. This continued to be the lodge of the Fremantle Masons until 1958, when a new Masonic Hall was opened for Fremantle Lodge no.1033. ... The original Masonic Hall was purchased by the Navy Club at this time. Heritage Council. Now commercial premises.
Henry Street
At 54 Henry St, an old commercial facade has been retained in a modern dwelling complex.
Moore's Building, 42-46 Henry St, is now an art gallery and coffee shop (called Moore & Moore). The facade is from about 1900. The City of Fremantle owned and restored the building 1986-7. See: Robyn Taylor 1995, The Moores Project: Conservation of the The Moores Complex of Buildings, Architecture & Heritage Section, City of Fremantle.
Fowler's Warehouse, aka the Fremantle Furniture Factory, 1700, 38 Henry St. Fowler established at the site in 1854, then purchased adjoining land (through to Pakenham St) and built the current building between 1899 and 1700. Wikipedia page.
Sadlier's Warehouse/Customs Agency, 34 & 36 Henry St; built in 1883 and 1880; converted into residences in 1992 to a Brian Klopper design. In the 1840s a stone building and a pair of semis were on this site. Unit 1/36, including the rooms in the photo at the front of the building on the right, was sold for $1.1 on 1 April 2014.
At 32 Henry St, a modern apartment has been built above and behind a cottage and warehouse from the 1890s, at the rear of the Union Stores building.
High Street
On the SE corner of Henry and High Sts is the Union Stores building, designed by architect Herbert Nathaniel Davis for J & W Bateman, and formerly the largest hardware store in Fremantle, Bateman's Hardware. The verandahs were restored in the Americas Cup defence renovation in 1986. It's owned by the City of Fremantle, and has just at the time of writing had more renovations completed. The tenant in the corner store is now the New Editions bookshop, which was previously on the other side of High St.
Orient Hotel, on the corner of Henry and High Streets. The earliest hotel on the site, from 1849, was the Commercial, later the Emerald Isle Hotel—where, in 1876, the Catalpa incident was planned: the escape of six Fenians, including John Boyle O'Reilly, from Fremantle Prison. That hotel was demolished in 1903, after which what is now the magnificent Orient Hotel was built. It was renovated in 1995, and was closed in 2014 for further renovations. In 2015 the owners were seeking a new lessee.
The Orient Hotel looks down on these, the Adelec Buildings, 28-36 High St, originally known as Fothergill's Building.
Cleopatra Hotel, 24 High St, 1907, with me standing outside in the Google Street View photo
Marich Building, c1897, 36-44 High St, on the northeast corner of High and Henry St, has been proposed for redevelopment since before 2006, when an application to build a 5-storey hotel/apartment complex at the rear was refused. The Rialto Apartments door is at 44, and they presumably occupy all of the upper floor. The Royal Hotel was on this site in 1844. The original town lot numbers were 80/81.
Henry Street
The Lance Holt School building at 10 Henry St was built in 1892, and later was the Federal Coffee Palace (a hotel without a liquor license). The warehouse and offices were apparently built for Philip Webster, and were later occupied by various tenants until the City bought it in 1972. The School has occupied it since 1974 and owned it since 1985.
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At the corner of Phillimore St, no. 2 Henry St still has the curved facade of the Falk Building tho the interior - and that of several other buildings on a large site bounded by Phillimore, Henry, and Pakenham Streets - was completely rebuilt for the occupation of various commonwealth government departments - which have since moved on. At least this part of the building (if not all of 'it') is apparently now called Customs House, as that's what the sign on the building says. The facade is apparently also known as that of the Seppelts and also of the ACTA Building. There was a recent proposal for a new design inside the facade for NDU.
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The Frank Cadd Building at 33 Phillimore St, 1890, known later as Fares House, was built for an importer, J.M. Ferguson. The new part of the NDU School of Health Sciences building is adjoining, on the corner of Henry St. On the other, western side is His Majesty's Hotel, on the corner of Mouat Street.
The first building with a Pakenham St address is the 1897 Tolley Bond Store, at 1 Pakenham St. The Tolley sign has been restored above the alleyway, despite their having moved out in 1910. The 1897 building was designed by architect Herbert Nathaniel Davis.
Further down the street, at 5 Pakenham St, is the facade of their former HQ, which was bought by Seppelt in 1912. In 1880 that lot was the property of John Gallop, and was a dwelling. Gallop had a warehouse there from 1893 to 1898. The present facade of the building at 5 Pakenham St was probably built in 1901 for Tolley & Co, tho the first storey (top level) was built by John Gallop in 1893. Seppelt bought it in 1912.
The Strelitz brothers built this at 9 Pakenham St in 1904. Tenants included the Fremantle Provedoring Shipstores.
The Halco building on the corner of Short St at 8 Pakenham St was a warehouse constructed in 1929 to a design by Joseph Allen. It is the site of Manning's Folly 1858-1928. A 77-apartment building called Quest has now been built inside the facade, and the building you see in the photo has been gutted.
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The Pearlers Hotel, built in 1887 at 18 Pakenham St, on the corner with Leake St, became the Terminus Hotel in 1896 when the Swan Brewery acquired it. Homeswest bought it in 1989.
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The Victoria Coffee Palace at 11 Pakenham St was built in 1895. A coffee palace was a hotel which did sell not alcoholic beverages. The building was used as a backpackers hostel until 2015 when it changed hands.
High Street
On the northeast corner with Pakenham St, 70 High St is Mason Buildings, also known as a former Commonwealth Bank.
Pearse's Building, 72-78 High St, 1899?
Commercial Hotel, 80 High St, 1908. There has been a hotel on this site since the 1840s, first called the Albert Hotel. In 1888 it changed its name to the Commercial. The hotel was rebuilt in 1908, with John McNeece as the architect. Not to be confused with the hotel which is now the Orient, which was also called the Commercial Hotel at one point in time.
Pakenham Street corner
On the NW corner of Pakenham St at 64 High St is the Navy Club, upstairs, with commercial premises on the ground floor. The Navy Club was previously in the Freemasons Hall in Marine Parade. The two-storey building was built for the Bank of Adelaide in 1910. This lot (105) was allocated in 1829 to Robert Thomson who built and operated the Stirling Arms, one of the first four pubs in the colony.
On the south-east corner with Pakenham St, at 61-3 High St, is Central Chambers, built in 1906, and restored in 1991, and with other changes 1993-94. William Pearse's butcher's shop stood here 1850s-1906.
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The Ajax Building, 49-59 High St, is on the site where the Stag's Head Inn stood in 1834, on the corner of Pakenham and High Sts.
Pakenham Street
John Church Bulk Stores, 21-23 Pakenham St. The 1900 building was converted in the 1990s into mixed commercial and residential use.
Bannister Street
George Davies' Grosvenor Cellars, aka Bannister St Workshops, Bannister St Craftworks, 8 Bannister St, 1893
The (second) Fremantle Club was in Bannister St. It closed in 2008, to be replaced by the Hougoumont Hotel. Previous organisations on the site were, in reverse order, Club Giovanni Italia, the Duke of York Hotel, and the Stanley Beer House (1840).
Pakenham Street
What is now Pakenham Apartments, at 56 Pakenham St, on the corner with Nairn St, was in 1998 a warehouse and offices for W.D. Moore. It later provided accommodation for a confectionary manufacturer, a wool broker, a skin and hide store, a ship repairer, a panel beater, a designer, and an oyster supplier, tho not all at the same time.
Nairn Street
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The present Eureka Flour Mill was built in 1876, but there was another such building on the site from 1870. It is no. 6, near the Pakenham end of the street.
Collie Street
'The Oceanic Hotel, Pakenham Street, was formerly known as the Welsh Harp Inn and the Collie Hotel. It was delicensed in 1922/1923 and became a boarding house. In 1975 it was still a boarding house until it was sold to the Orange People in 1981. After extensive renovations the building was converted into six apartments and opened under the name "Rivendell" in 1982.' Fremantle Library.
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On March 26 [1901] Sir John Forrest laid the foundation stone of the Trades Hall in Collie Street, the land having been given by the Government, who also made a substantial cash donation towards the building fund. The building was opened on June 23, 1904, by W. H. Carpenter, M.H.R., the first Labour [sic] representative for Fremantle in the Federal Parliament. Hitchock: 79.
The block between Collie and Essex Streets, once the property of Captain Daniel Scott, is now occupied by the Esplanade Hotel.
References and Links
Hutchison, David 2006, Fremantle Walks, FACP.
streets index
West End walks
This page incorporates material from Garry Gillard's Freotopia website, that he started in 2014 and the contents of which he donated to Wikimedia Australia in 2024. The content was originally created on 27 December, 2018 and hosted at freotopia.org/westend/walk4.html (it was last updated on 3 May, 2024), and has been edited since it was imported here (see page history). The donated data is also preserved in the Internet Archive's collection.