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Brownell's log of the 1830 voyage of the Tranby

“Brig Tranby”
Ship’s Journal kept by Thos. C Brownell L.S.A. M. F.R.C.S. (Licensed Apothecary, Medical Practitioner, and Master of Surgery England ) in conjunction with the ship's log on the journey 1829-1830.Hull England to the Swan River Colony.

Transcribed by John Kelly.

Wednesday Sept 9th 1829.
After a considerable detention our vessel got underweigh [sic] amidst an immense concourse of spectators, and sailed down the Humber from Hull, three cheers were exchanged from the vessel and the quay, the rain fell in torrents, and the wind failing soon after, we were taken in tow by the Kingston Steam Tug which accompanied us down to Grimsby in order to take the friends of the passengers back to Hull who sailed thither with us. About 6 o'clock pm. they took their final leave of us; passed the Spurn Lights, parted with our pilot and stood out to sea.

Friday 11th.
Rather squally, thick fog for a short time, passed Yarmouth Roads, at noon Lowestoft etc.

Sunday 13th.
Fine views of Dover and the French coast. Mr. Leach preached in the afternoon; dined at table to-day for the first time.

Monday 14th.
The wind being contrary the whole of yesterday are still detained tacking about opposite Dover. Passed in the course of the day Hastings and other towns on the coast which have a pretty appearance from the sea, the wind still contrary.

Tuesday 15th.
Being unable from the wind to proceed we anchored off Dungeness, a small party went on shore and after 4 miles walking reached Romney, a small clean, quiet town in Kent. Here we regaled ourselves at the New Inn, bought fresh bread for the Capt., apples etc. and returned in the afternoon to the ship.

Thursday 17th.
Yesterday morning we were off the Isle of Wight, the wind still continuing contrary we made no progress, tacking about the whole day: very early this morning a strong gale sprung up which at 4 o'clock am. Drifted us close to shore, so perilous was our situation that the Capt. Told me afterwards he was on the point of calling all hands up to prepare for going ashore; tho' our vessel would have been a complete wreck, he thought it probable no lives would have been lost from the nature of the shore, she however bore up to the wind in a masterly manner and weathered the point most unexpectedly; the Mate congratulated us on having one of the best vessels that for His mercy manifested in preserving us from destruction. The whole of this day the wind continued contrary and we had from destruction. The whole of this day the wind continued contrary and we had fine views of various parts of the Island as we tacked about.

Sunday 20th.
Becalmed to-day as on last Sabbath, fine weather, off the coast of Cornwall, the Lizard Lighthouse clearly in sight. Mr. L. preached from 1 Ep. Peter Ch. 3 V 18. to-night we bid adieu to Old England.

Monday 21st
Entered the chops of the Channel, commencing the Bay of Biscay, becalmed – the swelling of the sea truly grand, sometimes rising in one majestic body far above the level of our ship's side and proceeded towards us as tho' to bear us down, but as it approaches gradually sliding under her so as to leave us in a fine valley of considerable extent.

Saturday 26th
Since Tuesday, the wind has been pretty favourable so that we have kept the proper bearing for Madeira without going into the Bay till last evening when we altered a point or two, and stood for the Spanish Coast. This morning we were near Cape Finisterre, the Capt. expected to have seen it about mid-night and from that purpose went on deck and found all the Watch asleep, even the 2nd mate who was on duty, making the coast very fast, distance about 20 miles, had we continued in that direction with all asleep, most probably we would this morning have been on shore, the Lord still befriends us, and we find cause for thankfulness that his Providence has placed us under a Capt. who is unremitting in his duty and vigilant in its discharge. Foggy weather with rain, which prevents us seeing clearly the Coast. All hands appear to have got their sea legs on.

Sunday 27th
The fog continued the whole of yesterday with a calm until about 6 o'clock this morning when a light breeze sprung up, the day is fine and clear, we have a fine view of the cliffs on the Spanish Coast about Cape Finisterre from which we are distance about 10 leagues only, the wind obliging us to stand so near inland, ship in sight. Mr. Jos Hardey preached from Ep. 1. Ch. 4 V 8.
Monday 28th.
Strong gale all night, considerable rolling, 8 knots per hour with 6 sails set. The sea exhibits an awful yet pleasing appearance, rolling majestically.

Tuesday 29th.
The breeze continued strong, since yesterday have sailed 190kts. Lat 39N. Most of us in the cabin affected again with sickness occasioned by the excessive rolling of the ship and swelling of the sea; it is with difficulty we can maintain our seats.

Wednesday 30th
An alarming scene has just passed away. Dinner was scarcely over when a sudden explosion took place as if from a half charged gun, attended with such terrific howling from the dogs and screaming from some persons on deck as produced the belief that some person was shot, the flash shone vividly into the cabin. In a moment it was all confusion and alarm. As soon as the cause could be investigated it was found that a ball of fire, which falling near the main mast where the 1st and 2nd Mates were adjusting a sail (a squall coming on) exploded, and then spread round the larboard side of the deck as far as the windlass where several persons were sitting and who were thrown down by its shock. The Mates were thrown senseless to the ground, the 1st Mate (between whose legs it exploded) lay some minutes for dead and was several hours before the use of his lower extremities returned. The flash which entered the cabin affected one hand and arm of Mrs. Jos Hardey who at the moment was on the table on the opposite side from the door. Immediate search was made among the hay etc. etc. but providentially no damage was sustained. Lat. 36.. 40N. One peal of thunder only followed this phenomena of nature, tho there was a good deal of lightning in the night. How easily might all hands have been sent into eternity, and our vessel shivered in pieces. How appropriate the command and salutary the warning given by our Saviour, Be ye also ready etc. In the midst of danger my mind rests with a degree of peace on the atoning merits of my Saviour, and whilst I contemplate his infinite power, I am led to adore with humble gratitude, the infinite of his loved mercy in Christ:- About breakfast time this morning spoke the Brig. Maria bound for Falmouth from Smyrna, gave her our destination etc. which she promised to report. Just discovered that a sheep is dead found near to the spot where the Fire Ball fell, as it showed no previous signs of illness, there is every reason to believe it was killed by the Electric Fluid.

Thursday October 1st.
About 11 ½ last night another Fire Ball fell near the bow of the vessel into the sea. The weather is fine with a stiff breeze, been running all night 8 ½ knots per hour.

October 2nd.
Fine weather with a calm, clear view of the Western side of the Island of Madeira.

October 3rd.
A light breeze sprung up this morning which we suppose to be the Trade Winds, have not seen the sea so calm before. 20 sails spread to the wind, passing through S.W. side of Madeira.

Sunday 4th.
Stiff breeze all day, running 8 kts. Lat. 29 53 N. Mr. Leach gave an exhortation grounded on the 26Ch. Math:- a faithful discourse replete with good feeling.

October 5th.
Fine weather with a very perceptible increase in the temperature of the air; Palma one of the Canary Islands bears in sight distant about 20 leagues. The M.T.G. Mast carried away about 8 pm. One of Mr. Clarkson's horses died. Lat. 27. 49N.

Tuesday 6th.
Warm weather, sun in the shade at noon 78°. Lat. 25 43 N.

Wednesday 7th.
Crossed the Tropic of Cancer at 2 p.m. Lat 23 30 N. Commenced yesterday reading the life of the Revd. Hy. Martin.

Thursday 8th.
Fine weather with variable winds, shoals of flying fish skirting about. Lat. 22. 25 N.

Friday 9th.
There is a peculiar green appearance of the sea to-day, similar to that of soundings; the sun becomes more vertical, and an increased temperature of air consequent thereon very perceptible. The constellations are beautifully brilliant at night and appear much larger to me than I have been accustomed to see them in England. Lat. 19. 49 N. Long. 23. 0 N.

Saturday 10th.
At 4 o'clock p.m. came in sight of St. Antonio one of the Cape De Verde Islands. The appearance from the sea is very majestic, the irregular succession of cliffs and points towering to the clouds and in many parts enveloped in them, reflected upon by the sun's rays give them the appearance of drifted snow or chalk. Lat. 17 36 N.

Sunday 11th.
Wind contrary, Mr. Jno. Hardey preached from Rev. 1. Ch. V. 7.

Monday 12th.
Hailed an American Brig. after dinner. Weather exceptionally hot. Lat. 13.34

Tuesday 13th.
Gratified this morning with the sight of a Grampus or Young Whale, the weather oppressive: at noon a waterspout was seen which was followed soon after dinner by the most heavy showers of rain I ever witnessed, attended with thunder and lightning which lasted the whole of the afternoon and night. Several hundred gallons of good water were soon caught which proved a great treat to the whole ship's company, and put the washing tubs into general requisition. Lat 11. 49N.

Friday 16th.
Light breezes the several days back, excessively hot, a vessel in sight in the distance, Lat. 9.27N.

Saturday 17th.
Calm and very hot, awning put over the poop for some days back. Lat 8 N. An attack of Erysipelas came on last night in one of my feet, which to-day effects both and quite deprives of their use. Two vessels in sight.

Sunday 18th.
Light breeze and contrary. Thermometer in the shade at 7 ½ am. Is 80°. In the afternoon read Dr. Clark's sermon on the authenticity of the Scriptures, to the ship's company. A strong current setting in here from the West drifts us considerably out of our course.

Monday 19th.
Calm and oppressively hot. Lat 7. 49N.

October 21st
Heavy squalls in the night. Lat 6. 46N. Calm in the morning. Head sea, heavy squalls of rain during the day. Lat. 6. 27N. In the evening Jupiter and Venus in conjunction paid a visit to Neptune.

October 23rd.
A ship and brig in sight for the last two days. Heavy rain fell during the day and evening, the constellations are peculiarly large and brilliant in the Western Hemisphere.

October 24th.
Weather variable, sail still in sight. Lat. 5. 39N.

Sunday 25th.
Very hot; becalmed and drifted most of the day by a nasty swell in the sea. Mr. L. preached from Heb. 31. 4V. Lat 5. 9N. Dolphin were seen last evening for the first time.

Monday 25th.
Still becalmed. Lat. 4. 45N. Several sharks seen in the afternoon but could not succeed in catching any until mid-night, when one was taken which after some time was hoisted aboard. Dimensions as follows. Full length 7ft, 9in. Girth round the body 3ft. Round the head 2ft. 6in. Under the legs 2ft.

Tuesday 27th.
Becalmed till noon when a good breeze sprung up supposed to be the S.E. Trades.

October 28th.
The breeze continued but being contrary have only southed one degree Lat. 3. 30N.

October 29th.
Becalmed, excessively hot. Lat.3. 14N. Thermometer in the shade at noon 83°. In the afternoon a small shark playing round a small hoop on the surface of the water, very eagerly swallowed a bait, and was presently on deck.

October 31st.
A stiff breeze to-day after a squall in the morning but like most that we have had latterly quite contrary so that we are obliged to tack frequently. Having been detained now a fortnight since we ought to have crossed the Equator, all hands began to feel the ennui and long to be on shore again at their several occupations. The appearance of the heavens as well as the immense expanse of waters by which we are surrounded afford many useful lessons and suggestions to the contemplative mind; but more especially to one under the influence of gracious feeling when surveying the whole he can appropriate the heart cheering language, my Father made them all. (some of the balance of the page damaged by water) Could our friends but see us and read our minds in the course of one short day, methinks they would both envy and pity us, yet there is a great gulf fixed between us even now, and whether we shall ever meet again or not, (thanks be to sparing mercy), it is not yet the Gulf of Gods threatened justice, and almighty purpose, to separate forever the righteous and the wicked. Lat.2. 42N.

Sunday Nov 1st.
The breeze continues. Mr. Jos. Hardey preached from Romans Ch. 10.V.14. Lat 2. 6N.

Monday 2nd.
A heavy squall last evening, after which a calm for two hours; a good wind then sprung up and with an increase in speed we lay our course better than for some time bearing S.W. And S.W.2/2S. Lat 1. 25N. Slept with my (balance of page damaged by water).

Tuesday 3rd.
Breeze continued, course as yesterday. Lat. 0. 16N. the conversation naturally turns to Neptune's visit and preparations are making accordingly. The Sun nearly vertical but his being beclouded occasionally together with the good breezes prevents our feeling that oppressive heat some persons might suppose. About 8 this evening Neptune hailed us as follows: Neptune Brig ahoy-Capt. Brig ahoy. Neptune... From whence came you? Capt. From Hull: Neptune: Where bound to? Capt. Swan River: Neptune. I don't remember seeing this lady in my dominions before. Capt. No Sir: Neptune. Will you allow me to pay my sons a visit to morrow to initiate those who have not been in the Southern Clime before? Capt. Yes Sir: Neptune thanked him and retired. The denouement was made by the firing of a pistol at the bows, and he retired by one of the sailors running along the lee side of the vessel and throwing an old tar barrel containing combustibles on fire, over the stern. It is supposed we crossed the Equator about tea time. Long. 25W nearly.

Wednesday 4th.
Lat. 1° 12m. S. Mr. Neptune again hailed us. Those of the steerage passengers who would not acknowledge his authority by paying a fine, or being shaved were confined below, the rest were made constables and together with cabin passengers occupied the windward side of the ship, preparations having been previously made for his reception. Neptune and his wife came arm in arm toward us addressing the Captain for a short time expressed themselves as being much fatigued with their journey, received a glass of Port wine Negus, then turning round to retire installed their Barber who followed in their train carrying his brush and razor (about 18 inches long) to the fore part of the vessel, there a seat was prepared for their Majesties, as also one for his sons, with an abundance of water, the lather tub, apron, etc. etc. Being seated, the sheriffs and constables brought those who were to be shaved blindfold one by one, and having introduced them to their Majesties and received from them a charge to take all proper care of them, placed then on the seat. The operation then commenced by tying a fleece of wool thoroughly wet (as an apron) round their necks; lathering, asking a few questions, daubing and brush into their mouths when attempting to answer, shaving them, placing the speaking trumpet to the mouth wherewith to hail the Brig, upon which a bucket of water was poured down it, and the whole ended by teaming several upon them. After all had gone thru the ritual the water flew about the decks plentifully, their Majesties not omitted, this having ceased, they came in company as at first to take their leave of the Captain and to receive a glass of grog. Having retired a short distance the Barber was called and desire to sing Rule Britannia; he did so and was joined in the chorus by some of the passengers.. Three cheers finished the afternoon's sport. The lather was composed of pea soup, potatoes and water.

Thursday 5th.
Fine weather. Lat.2. 54S. The moon is quite vertical and so bright tho not two quarters old, that at Prayers at 8 o'clock I gave out a hymn by her light, had some liberty in performing this duty and felt measurably blessed.

Sunday 8th.
Fine weather, course as for some days back S.W. By S. Lat. 8. 26S. Peter Scolly, one of the sailors gave an affectionate and faithful admonition from 2nd Ep. Corinth. Ch. 13 V 5.

November 9th.
To-day we be much nearer our proper course then some of our oldest sailors ever knew before in these Trades and latitude, bearing S. by E. Lat 10 34S.

November 10th.
Our course improved having come up a point in the night, bearing S.S.E. Lat 12 44S. Weather continues fine and the strong breeze render the heat much more supportable. Thermometer 83° at noon in the shade. Mr. Hardey lost a mare to-day.

November 11th.
Considerable swell with a head sea the last two days, Lat 14. 48S. Long 27N. Much calmer. This afternoon and evening the sky assumed a peculiar hazy (then about four or five lines spoilt by water). It is accounted for by our overtaking the Sun in his southern declination. Lat 16 30S. Evening 81/2 pm. Whilst sitting on the quarter deck with the 1st Mate and Carpenter (the moon has just risen) a ship appeared in sight coming directly down upon us before the wind. I gave the Captain immediate information; from a variety of circumstances he and the other officers considered it highly probable that she was a Pirate, and preparations were instantly made for self defence, every man was summoned on deck, the ship's guns manned, all the passengers well armed with muskets, swords, cutlasses, board pikes, etc. etc. and ordered to lie down. She approached us rapidly carrying a press of canvas until about ¾ of a mile from us, the moon meanwhile rising higher and shining brighter. All were now ready and waiting with anxiety the result, expecting every moment the usual hailing of such vessels (the firing of a gun) when suddenly she bore away to the W.N.W. The conjecture now was that she was a slaver from the African coast bound to Rio Janerio [sic] or Bahia in the Brazils. The schene [sic] passed off with a glass of grog to all hands and served for a good deal of merriment.

November 13th.
Passed the Sun to the Southward about one, fine weather, light breeze Lat. 18. 0.S. Island of Trinidada [sic] to the Westward distance 150 miles. The Mate pointed out a peculiar black streaked appearance of the clouds which he says lies over it. The days increase considerably in length and something cooler.

November 14th.
Cloudy, heavy squall, ship in sight.

Sunday 15th.
Read prayers and finished Dr. C. sermon to the company. Rather indisposed from Diarrhea [sic], ship still in sight, fine smooth sea.

Monday 16th.
Heavy squalls with a high sea running, carried away jib and flying jib booms, lowered the T.G. Yds. for the first time since leaving the Channel; rain; rough night. Lat. 22S. S. Long.

Tuesday 17th.
Squally, with a high head sea till noon. While stood by the larboard gun with Mr. Jos Hardey we shipped a heavy sea for the first time over the quarter which drove us away rather rudely and wet us through. Took down our Royal Mast and yds. A second wave in the afternoon reached the top of the Round House and again wet me thoroughly in the situation. Lat. 24. 10S.

Wednesday 18th.
Heavy squalls and high sea continue, very unwell the last day or two from Da.... How salutary and necessary those trials and afflictions [sic] which we are called to contend with and distress us during our pilgrimage through this vale of tears. Though for the present they are grievous and not joyous yet during the last few days I have felt and seen them in a light I never did before as being requisite to wean our minds from earth, and set our affections above, Though surrounded by the mighty deep and consequently every moment liable by cause trifling in themselves to be ushered into eternity while sailing calmly and pleasantly along, how easy to slide into a light and unwatchful spirit, and forget ourselves and our God; in such a state how useful a troubled sea to bring us to our right minds: Lat. 26. 11S. Long.

Saturday 21st.
Fine weather and smooth sea. Brig in sight yesterday passed during the night. Lat. 29. 37S Long 15.0 W.

Sunday 22nd.
Mr. L preached from 1 Ep. Cor. Ch.9 V 25. Long 13.30W.

Monday 23rd.
High head sea in the night, with wind and rain, lowered T.G. Yds. Sent down Royal yds. And sky sail mast this morning. 2nd Mate asleep notwithstanding. Continued squally all day. 6 pm. Calm.

Thursday 26th.
Rough and squally, blowing a hurricane, the sea rolls awfully past us, occasionally breaking heavily upon our vessel. Jib sail carried away and torn to pieces, reeved topsails and unshipped Royal Masts. Afternoon rain fell in torrents. Sail in sight. Evening, Quite a contrast with the former part of the day, were it not for the troubled state of the sea, no one would suppose there had been a storm. The heavens clear and serene, the stars brilliant and not a cloud to be seen, or a breath of wind to fill our sails.

Friday 27th.
Calm, laying due East, our vessel being nearly stationary, tried the experiment of the empty bottle. Having procured a wine bottle, very thick and strong, I corked it tight and sealed it up with pitch, it was then attached by the neck to the sounding line and lowered into the water; 80 fathoms being run it was pulled up, when I found that 4 oz. of water had made its way into it, thus confirming former experiments of a similar nature. It was witnessed by the whole company.

Sunday 29th.
Sea runs high, rolling excessively, several Whales seen yesterday spouting in the distance. About 21/2 this morning the helmsman discovered a light on our weather bow at a considerable distance, a signal lanthorn was hoisted at our fore top. As we approached it became so large that our fears were awakened by the thought of some other vessel being on fire. All hands were called up to render any assistance that might be wanted and we bore up out of our course towards her and well as the wind would allow. On nearing her, to our gratification we found she was a South Sea Whaler who having caught a fish that day was boiling the blubber on deck. She was the Phebe Davidson London. Lat 34. S. 30 W. Mr. Jos Hardey preached from the 1st Psalm. A Prayer meeting in the steerage in the evening.

Tuesday December 1st.
Light breezes during the day, all anxiety to beat the C. G. Hope. A large whale was seen near the vessel yesterday and several more are blowing about to-day. Lat. 35. 3 S. Long 1.45 E.

Friday 4th.
Fine weather, rather hazy at noon. Long 8.45 E. Lat 35. S.

Saturday 5th.
A fine wind all night and to-day - 9 knots per hour at times, the sea has an awful appearance, tossing us about as in sport, rolling very high. About 3½ this morning my wife was brought to bed of a fine boy. Lat. 33.17 S. Long 12.10 E.

Sunday 6th.
A fine calm day. Mr. Jno. Hardey preached from the Prodigal Son, in the evening a prayer meeting in the steerage. Long. 13.55.E.

Monday 7th.
About 11a.m. the Captain proclaimed land ahead from the fore top. The sound ran through the ship and presently all hands were in motion to feast their eyes with a sight of the long looked for and talked of Cape. Around us the Sun shone beautifully, the horizon was rather hazy but a large portion of land could be distinctly seen; it was the Table Mountain. The sea was pretty calm, but the wind directly ahead of us, so that under close hauled sails we had to beat the whole of our way thro the day, the wind and sea continued to rise, and blow and beat as the day advanced until about 4 o'clock p.m. when it became a tremendous gale and our vessel lay over almost upon her beams, so that it was with the utmost difficulty we could support ourselves in any part of her. Mr. Neptune too did not fail to avail himself of the commotion and swept our decks with his billows, which no sparing hand. Our Royal Masts and yards had been taken down early in the afternoon and lashed upon the deck as the gale increased, the T. G. sails fore and aft were stowed, the top sails double reeved, Spencer stowed etc. so that we had only a main sail, foresail, main top sail and fore top sails with double reefs in them and one jib sheet set, yet such was the strength of the gale that we lay along as above stated and such the capabilities of our vessel, that with such a gale ahead of us, and a head sea to boot, we frequently ran at the rate of 6 and 8 knots per hour. As the afternoon and evening advanced a considerable extent of South African Coast presented itself; Next to Table Mountain that portion of coast named the Gunners Coin, the Lion's Head and Rump and the Devil’s Mount was perceptible, than the coast North and South of Cape Town. At sunset-viz a little before 7 then distant about 12 miles tho to appearance not more than 2 the scene was grand indeed. The above named parts taking their names from what they naturally resemble, the declining rays of the Sun and afterwards the Moon's beams reflecting upon them, gave the exact resemblance of so many immense figures of highly polished black lead, the broken and irregular cliffs on either side partaking of the same shining jetty hue. Towards this scenery we were beating tremendously until about 81/2 when from the confusion produced in my head from the violence of the winds and waves, I found we had imperceptibly lost both and were still and quiet as upon a fish pond, one of the ladies who was sitting with me in the cabin first noticed it whereupon I rallied forth and to my gratification found we had got under cover of the land and were trying to round the point of entry to Table Bay. Our greatest fear was that we should not find wind enough to carry us forward. It was soon bedtime, most had retired and as we appeared stationary, and I thought I should want all my strength the following day for strolling about Cape Town, I threw myself on the cabin locker with all my clothes on and caught a short nap. From the noise and confusion that prevailed on deck it was necessarily short and a little before 1 am. I again sailed forth, we were just entering the point of the Bay on which the Lighthouse stands, the effect was exquisite, the blazing Lighthouse, the white houses scattered irregularly on the beach at the feet of the Lion's Hump then the lofty Table Mountain with Cape Town (all white houses at its feet,) here and there a vessel lying at anchor, now and then the sound of their bells calling the Watch and breaking the death like silence of mid-night the brilliant moon beaming aloft, the gentle hum that buzzed upon the ear as from a distance cascade wafted like a gentle sephyr [sic] on the smooth and glassy surface of the Bay - associated with all this is a South African scene and what among your distant cliffs or on the beach perhaps there is a tiger strolling here, the missionary's wagon pitched, there his oxen straying and many little etceteras produced a sensation of delight that you may conceive of but cannot feel, making me for a time forget all my past dangers, thinking it worth while coming so far to witness and wishing my friends could behold and enjoy it with me. The anchor was cast, the sails furled and again I threw myself on the locker to enjoy the solemn reverie. When we approached the land gusts of hot air saluted us pretty freely.
Early on the morning of Tuesday 8th a boat from the Port Captain's office came alongside with an officer, the Captain and myself signed bills of health and they came on board, made a variety of enquiries, took down the passengers names, ordered the Union Jack Flag to be hoisted at the main masthead and departed. We found 3 ships laying in the Bay, bound to the Swan River viz. Wanstead, Egyptian and Minstrel, they had only arrived a day or two before us. Long before breakfast time we had several boats alongside, with milk, bread, eggs and various kinds of fruits which went off pretty briskly. After breakfast having engaged a boat to wait on the vessel during our stay we gained the beach and found ourselves on shore, on the long looked for Cape of Good Hope. Cape Town, the capital of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope, and the seat of Government is a regular well built town surpassing in neatness of appearance and regularity of structure any that I ever saw in England. The streets are wide, and long, running entirely thro from hill to hill, and from the base of Table Mountain to the Bay intersecting each other at right angles. Every street is furnished at proper distances with pumps about 2ft. high made of cast iron, very handsome in appearance and of a superior construction to those in England, having only to turn the handle like a cock and instantly a fine stream of beautiful water gushes out. The exterior of the houses are all white washed, the frontage raised from the level of the street instead of causeways and planted with young oaks, Scotch Furs, or Grape Vines which last were loaded with fruit but unfortunately for us – sour. There are many handsome squares and buildings in different parts of the town and several large public edifices for the Dutch, Protestant, reformed Lutheran, Government offices, barracks, Castle Exchange Rooms etc. The houses are rarely more than two stories high, seldom that, and always flat roofed, the tremendous South East winds that frequently prevail rendering it highly dangerous for them to be otherwise. Many of the principal streets have canals running thro them, either side being planted with trees and properly walled for the public safety, they were now quite dry, their chief use being to convey away the rain that falls during the wet season that pours down from the hills. There are many elegant shops equalling any in England and I may mention Twentyman and Company from London, jewellers and silversmiths by no means inferior to the very best in Leeds and very superior to most, otherwise speaking of them as a whole they have rather a contemptible appearance, having no bow windows, and being dirty and in confusion in the interior, but this is to a purchaser counterbalanced by the cheapness of most articles, but particularly food, a sheep of good size may be bought for 7/6. a fine young heifer for ₤3 and under, sugar for 3d per lb. that in England would cost 1/7 and to polish the whole Warren's jet blacking at 9d per bot. that is charged in England 1/-. The lofty Table Mountain rises with a gradual ascent within a short distance from the town and then towers aloft 4,000ft. The ascent is planted here and there with vineyards and a variety of trees with a neat white cot placed here and there, give it a pleasing look. The summit of the mount is a barren rock which receiving the sun's rays reflect them back upon the Town to a liquefying degree as you would have abundantly proved had you been there with me. The country I understand is much cooler and pleasant. Facing Table Bay as we landed stand two large Batteries to the right and the Castle to the left hand wall mounted with cannon, and always a guard on duty. From the Castle a cannon is fired every morning at 4 o'clock and again in the evening at 7 o'clock which are signals to the whole Town and well understood by the inhabitants of every description. The shops close at 7 pm. Regularly thro. The year the owners may have the advantage of walking in the cool of the evening. There is a Public Market held every morning at 4 am. on the outside of the Town and well attended which supplied all kinds of necessaries from grain of every kind to onions and apples. The vegetable produce is bought by the Dutch farmers and peasants in wagons having sometimes as many as 20 oxen attached to them. They stand in regular lines as they arrive, and expose their stuff for sale in the wagons, rarely if ever varying from the first price they fix upon each article, as soon as a wagon full is disposed of the owner drives off directly home not stopping like too many in England to drink away their gains at a Public House, and waste a whole day. Some of these come a great distance from the interior, taking it leisurely owing to the kind of conveyance and the softness of the roads, being a day or two sometimes on their journey and must consequently have a market for their produce when they arrive, hence it is that a daily market is held, so many smaller streams pouring their contents into one common receptacle.

Thursday 17th December.
All hands were on board and we attempted to get under weigh with the intention of sailing, but as a strong S.W. Wind setting in we drifted about a mile and finding the vessel would not come round without the greatest danger of running ashore cast anchor again. The gale increased tremendously and towards evening we let go to a second anchor to prevent the danger of drifting from the first. This is my 29th Birthday; what shall I render unto the Lord for all his benefits towards me. Lord grant that my spared life may show forth his praise.

Friday 18th.
The S.E. Still prevails and blows tremendously.

Saturday 19th.
Fine calm morning, weighed one of the anchors and found the stock of it gone. Should have sailed but unpleasantness with some of the men obliged a party to go ashore again. Noon 21/2 got under weigh with a fair wind, at night it blew a hurricane, obliged to take in a good deal of sail, being afraid of loosing a mast.

Sunday 20th.
A most unhallowed Sabbath, such work we never had before and hope we shall never have again; in the evening Mr. B gave an exhortation.

Monday 21st.
A fine morning with a nice breeze. Lat 33. 15S. Long 19 0.W.

Wednesday 23rd.
Wind continues fine, high boisterous sea all night, rolled about most wofully [sic] to my great annoyance, this morning the swell is grand rising at times many yards above the level of the vessel as it were in small mountains. Lat 35. S. Long 24.0.E.

Thursday 24th.
Lat 36.0.S. Long 25.30.E. A strong current from the N.W. which runs at the rate of 2 knots per hour has considerably impaired our progress, cleared the Bank of Agallus. Evening. Christmas Eve; how different from what we have been accustomed to witness in England; the sun is still shining in the firmament, the air is warm and pleasant, and the sky clear and serene as an evening in Spring.

Friday 25th.
Xmas day, a squally boisterous night with showers of rain, cleared up towards noon. Mr. B gave an exhortation from the commencement of the Angels to the Shepherds. Lat. 26.16S. Long 26. 30E. Lost the current yesterday, the sea much smoother.

Saturday 26th.
About 11½ last night a dreadful gale came on which carried away our main top gallant mast, fore top mast, Trunsail boom and did other damage, it continued heavy all night and is not yet abated, carried only 3 sails viz. Fore sail, fore top sail, double reefed and main top sail with one reef. The sea runs mountains high and we pitch about terribly. The rain fell heavily in the night and the wind was tremendous so that notwithstanding our disaster we have run since yesterday 179 knots. Lat 36. 26S. Long 32.0. E.

Sunday 27th.
Fine weather good breeze. Mr. Leach preached from Isiah 43 Ch. V. Lat.36.S. Long 25 ½ .0.

Monday 28th.
Fine sun shining morning, good breeze with 6 sails we run sometimes 9 knots. At mid-night a strong gale came on which presently carried away our M.T.G. Mast again, Ellis a sailor was coming off the lower end at the time, but fell forward in the sail upon the Brace by which he gained the rigging and came down safely. Lat.36.43S. Long 40.0E. Having run 225 knots.

Tuesday 29th.
Squally uncomfortable night, and high sea this morning, Noon, wind on the quarter, much steadier sailing; Lat 36. 39S. Long 43.40E.

Thursday 31st.
A delightful morning, light bracing air, smooth sea. Lat 36. 6S long. 47.30E.

Friday 1st January 1830.
A few of us last night watched the new year in. It is a beautiful morning, smooth calm sea, the prospect over the expanse of waters very fine, scarcely a ripple or a bubble to be seen as far as the eye can reach, but continued glassy surface . Lat 35.50S.

Saturday 2nd.
Ship in sight this morning a little wind came last night but soon subsided nearly calm all day. Lat 35.45S. Long 40.30E.

Sunday 3rd.
Light breeze, smooth sea, Noon cloudy. Peter preached from Mark 14 Ch. V. 15,16. a noisy Prayer Meeting in the evening in the steerage. Lat 35.50S.

Tuesday 5th.
Fine morning little wind. Lat 35.31S. Long 55.40E noon, wind a head laying a N.S and S.W.

Wednesday 6th.
Light breezes but contrary till noon. Lat. 35.57S.

Thursday 7th.
Lat. 36.47S. Long 50.30E. Evening. A quantity of sperm whale are to be seen basking in the sun on the surface of the water, one in particular lying about 40 yards to our larboard.

Friday 8th.
Wet morning but a fine day with a good breeze. Lat 37.19S.

Saturday 9th.
Heavy squall last night, to-day calm fine weather. Lat 37.13S Long 63.15E.

Sunday 10th.
Hazy with light breezes until noon when a heavy squall came in, took in and shortened sail, as the evening advanced and the wind blew very fresh and threatened a stormy night, rain fell freely.

Monday 11th.
The gale continued to increase in violence last night attended with thunder and lightning until it became a complete storm furiously (the rain pouring in torrents) so that one sail after another was taken in, some torn to pieces, others damaged until the whole were stowed, about 3 the helm was lashed hard a lee and under bare pole we drove before the wind, about 8 it moderated. The rain was so heavy that it made its way through the Round House top drenching the berths on the windward side and running down the cabin floor until bailed out with a bucket. Mr. Jos. Hardey preached yesterday from Heb. Ch. 12 V 25.

Tuesday 12th.
Very light airs. Lat. 38 29S Noon rain and calm.

Wednesday 13th.
Heavy rain most of last night, light breeze, heavy squalls. Lat 39.4S. Long 70.0E.

Saturday 16th.
A tremendous night similar to the one last week. Long. 75.30E.

Sunday 17th.
Similar night, passed the Islands of Amsterdam and St Paul's soon after dinner. Amsterdam distance about 10 miles. Mr. Leach gave an exhortation and Baptised my little boy by the name of James Story Brownell running 8 knots rolling sea Long 77.58E.

Monday 18th.
Fine weather Lat 30.3S Long 81.6E

Tuesday 19th.
Lat 38.23S. Long 84.36E.

Wednesday 20th.
Squally last night with rain, took in sail, considerable alarm in the steerage from an apprehension the vessel was sinking, ran sometimes 10 knots. Lat 37.50S. Long 87.46E.

Thursday 21st.
Last evening Mr. W Hardey had an attack of cholic [sic] which was relieved by an Anodyne Draught and formentations [sic] to the body, on retiring to bed he expressed himself as feeling as well as ever he did in his life. This morning about 6, I found him dead and in the same position as that in which he got into bed, his neck resting in the pillow with the chin thrown forward on the upper part of the breast, a silk handkerchief folded twice round the throat and tied in a double knot on the right side of the Trachea by the Right Jugular vein, the surface of the body was warm the face and head cold, and together with the neck and ears perfectly livid, the eyes glazed and fixed, the pupils dilated and the tip of the tongue protruding between the teeth. Pulsation had entirely ceased. The idea immediately struck me that he had been strangled, and might have been dead about an hour, I instantly unloosened the handkerchief and having spread a blanket on the cabin table and covered him in it, opened the jugular vein and discharged 3 lbs of blood, as I had anticipated however, it was productive of no good and the attempt to inflate the lungs was equally abortive. At the request of his friends I examined the body, when the result fully justified my expectations. The occipital veins discharged a considerable quantity of blood and the Pericranium was beautifully injected. The Dura and Pici Maters with the Tumcai Arachnaides were opaque. The Great Longitudinal and Lateral Sinuses with the other vessels on the surface of the brain more particularly, were distended with blood and on the posterior part of the Cerebellium there was considerable venous extravation, the Ventricles contained a small quantity of serum. On examining the Abdominal Viscera, the whole were found perfectly healthy; Lat 37.0S Long 90.0E.

Saturday 23rd.
Fine breeze, smooth sea. Lat 37.0S. Long 95.40E.

Sunday 26th.
A day meeting in the cabin, two sailors present, a season of great profit, cloudy cold, boisterous day. Mr. L preached from Math. Ch. V.

Monday 25th.
Wind not as favourable. Long 101.20E.

Tuesday 26th.
Boisterous night, rough morning, head sea, strong gale, Lat 34.10S. Evening gale continues, took down the Royal Mast, double reeved, top sails for and aft stowed, mainsail, reeved the Trisail, shipped a good deal of water.

Wednesday 27th.
Gale rather abated, but still ahead. Lat 33.20S. Long.

Thursday 28th.
Fine morning and very light breeze but unfavourable Lat 31.59S. Long 104.30E. Evening nearly calm.

Friday 29th.
A fine breeze, but rather squally. Lat. 32.6S. Long 106.20E

Saturday 30th.
Yesterday the weather became worse as the day advanced till it blew quite a hurricane at times, obliged to take in T.G.S. Double reef the Topsails etc. to-day it continued the same. Heavy squalls occasionally and high sea with slight rains at times. Lat 33.0S Long 109.20E

Sunday 31st.
Since 4 this morning the wind has gradually decreased, it is now nearly calm. Lat 33.10S Long 111.20E. In the forenoon a chap. Meeting, Peter preached in the afternoon from 24 Ch. St Johns Gospel. Verse. In the evening held a prayer meeting in the steerage. Considerable quantities of small fish are sporting about us. Lat.33S Long 111.20E.

Monday Feb 1st.
All anxiously looking and preparing for land, fine day, light airs: Lat 32.36S. Long 113.50E.

Tuesday Feb 2nd.
About noon land was discovered from the fore top mast by Jno. Green one of the steerage passengers; in about an hour it could be seen from the deck and from our latitude we judged it to be Cape Bouvard for which we had steered. The sun shone brilliantly from his first rising; the sky was clear and cloudless, the sea gently rippled with the wind offering an immense expanse to the eye of the beholder. The wind being favourable we stood direct for it until within about 15 miles upon the Larboard tack, then running before the wind edged up the coast gradually toward Garden Island, bearing distance from the land not more than at times 10 miles. The prospect from water is very pleasing appearing not very high, interspersed with white cliff rock, the whole extent is thickly covered with large timber trees at some distance from the edge, the intervening space having a green hue in some parts, in others sandy; and either rising in an easy ascent towards the trees or presenting an irregular succession of small hills lengthwise. Inland General Darling's range is distinctly to be seen stretching itself North and South as far as the eye can reach. Soon after land was seen from the decks several of our company thought they could discover smoke arising in large columns from various quarters as we approached nearer their surmises were fully confirmed for both upon the beach and still more interiorly we could distinctly see fresh columns arise quite from the ground. The scenery altogether exceeds any I have seen in England along the Coast. About tea time the Southern extremity of Garden Island was very visible, but the channel being very indistinct and finding it would be impossible to come to an anchor before dark, the Captain judged it best to stand off until morning being distant about 7 miles; a gun was fired as a signal for a Pilot (should there be one) to come off in the morning and we tacked about and shortened sail.

Wednesday 3rd.
Tacked about and stood up for the coast. Ran pretty close. Pulo Carnac as laid down in the chart could not be seen, the Captain then intimated that he thought my suggestion correct and that the Island before us was G. I. [Garden Island] and not Rottnest as he supposed previously, immediately therefore we stood for its Northern extremity and as we approached my opinion was fully confirmed, Pulo Carnac and Rottnest successively appeared in sight with the breakers as its North Eastern point, our minds consequently were more at rest from knowing exactly where we were. The wind was favourable blowing from the West. In the course of the forenoon we rounded the breakers and presently after had a fine view of Gages Roads and the west coast, several vessels then hove in sight, and presently after, a small sloop was soon coming out, which we hoped to be a Pilot, so it proved, tho not the regular one; he having been lost some weeks before; we stood pretty close in to Rottenest and were much pleased with the scenery. A man was placed in the main chains with a sounding line and we proceeded very cautiously notwithstanding at one time there was only 3½ fathoms of water, our Brig drew 2½ so that we were in danger from being aground, it deepened immediately after to 7 fathoms and by that time the Pilot alongside took charge of us. We pressed canvas and proceeded rapidly until Capt. Scott the Harbour Master came aboard and conducted us to our anchorage.

Saturday Feb 6th.
Went up the river to Perth the Seat of Government, entered myself and family at the Colonial Office and obtained license to live in the Colony. The same evening returned by moonlight and reached Fremantle about 1 o'clock.

Sunday Feb 7th.
In the afternoon the Rev. Mr. Sharp, Government Chaplain on his way to Sydney performed Divine Service in an outhouse, his Text taken from that Passage in the Romans “all have sinned” -From the time of our leaving the Channel prayer was held on deck every evening at 8 o'clock and every Sunday divine service was held in the afternoon. About a fortnight after my arrival having got my goods on shore, I took my leave of the Tranby, constructed a small tent on the beach with my boxes etc. as a wall round about and covered it with old blankets and curtains, here I resided with my family 8 weeks the first five of which I was waiting an opportunity of conveying my family and goods 19 miles up the river to the Peninsular Farm, a Government Reserve which his Excellency gave up to be distributed in proportions among the party who had come out in the Tranby as a present convenience. By the return of the land board I was entitled to 1,200 acres of land in consideration of the amount of property brought into the Colony, but it was nowhere to be found, the only land anything like soil being situated on the banks of the two rivers, commencing about 17 miles from the mouth of the Swan River, and that granted away in very large allotments to their very sources. From this part extending along the Island in a Southerly direction between Darling's Range and the sea, one continued barren waste presented itself to the traveller till he reaches Port Leschenault near Geographer's Bay near 200 miles from the head of the settlement. On the southern side of the mouth of S.R. An extensive flat is found consisting of firm sand covered with bushes and brushwood, some large trees, and covering in some parts a species of soft chalk stone. Upon this plot of sand a few wooden houses, huts and tents of various descriptions are built and is designated Fremantle. Several wealthy settlers had taken up their abode here and were keeping stores or Inns for the public accommodation, it is in fact (and from its situation must be) the Port to the whole Colony while it exists and the general Mart for every kind of merchandise. Fifteen miles up the river on the opposite side to this, the embryo of another Town is situated and designated Perth. It is considered the Capital of the Colony, is the Seat of Government and the residence of the Governor, Capt. Stirling. The mouth of the river is effectively blocked up by a bar of rocks on the one side, and sand on the other; leaving a narrow channel in the centre deep enough only for large boats to enter, and that attended with considerable ri [risk? Or rips?] at times. Proceeding upwards, the navigation is quite as bad arising from its shallowness; in many parts not allowing boats drawing 2 feet to pass, some times for days; the land and sea breezes too are uncertain in their duration preventing the communication between the Towns and the interior for 7 or 8 days together. The heat of the atmosphere is very great, during the greater part of the year, much higher than is given in the Official Reports in England, it was now the latter part of Autumn yet the thermometer generally stood at 83° in the shade and sometimes 125° in the sun. The water at Fremantle is very bad, not wholesome to be drunk without spirits, and almost invariably producing dysentery. During the winter season shipping cannot anchor in the Gages Roads with any kind of safety from the tremendous gales of wind which are then prevalent. Cockburn Sound is there only refuge and that is distant several miles, and the communication with Fremantle equally uncertain from the kind of wind that happens to prevail and by no means unattended with danger under the best circumstances. During our stay I was severely affected with Dysentery and my family with ophthalmia. We remained eight weeks at Fremantle and then, considering from a combination of circumstances the future prospects of the Colony succeeding were very obscure and the health of my family doubtful, we took a passage on board the Warrior. - Stone for Hobart Town, Van Dieman’s Land and sailed April 15th for that place.

Wednesday Morning May 6th.
We sighted land and endeavoured to enter Storm Bay passage to the Derwent, but the wind became suddenly a Gale, dead ahead of us, and blew us completely off, until the following Monday, when it cleared in our favour and the next forenoon we again made the land, during the afternoon and evening we made considerable progress into the Bay and by sunset reached the mouth of the River, at 10 ½ the Pilot Mr. Kelly came on board, but owing to the entire want of wind we did not make Harbour until Friday afternoon the 15th May 1830 when we cast anchor close to the Town and the next morning went ashore.

On Tuesday (19th) myself and family finally [departed] our wooden habitation and were kindly and most hospitably received by Mr. And Mrs. Dowsett of Campbell Street Hobart under whose roof we remained and found ourselves at home.
1830 May 21st I am suffering severely from [ab] a week of dysentery. I feel my health much impaired by my residence at Swan River [Colony].

References and Links

Many thanks to John Kelly for sending me this transcription of Thomas Brownell's diary.